How to Select Shoes

Why Shoe Selection Matters

Of all the lifestyle factors that affect foot health, none is more influential — or more commonly overlooked — than footwear. The wrong shoes don't just cause blisters and discomfort. Over time, they contribute to bunions, hammertoes, plantar fasciitis, neuromas, corns, and ingrown toenails. The right shoes can prevent all of these.

The good news: you don't have to sacrifice style for foot health. You simply need to know what to look for.

Timing Your Shoe Purchase

Getting the Right Fit: Key Principles

• Length — there should be a thumb's width (approximately ½ inch) between your longest toe and the end of the shoe. Don't assume your shoe size from memory — feet change over time, especially after pregnancy, weight changes, or decades of wear.
• Width — the widest part of the shoe should match the widest part of your foot. The ball of your foot should sit comfortably inside the shoe without being compressed. Shoes that are too narrow are a leading cause of neuromas and bunions.
• Toe box — the toe box should be wide enough and deep enough to allow your toes to sit flat and straight without being squeezed together or forced to curl. Pointed toe boxes are one of the worst designs for foot health.
• Heel fit — the heel should fit snugly without slipping. Shoes that slip at the heel cause blisters and require the toes to grip, which contributes to hammertoes and plantar fasciitis.
• Arch support — the arch of the shoe should support the arch of the foot. Completely flat shoes (ballet flats, flip-flops) provide no support and place the entire load on the plantar fascia.
• Flexibility vs. stability — the midfoot should be firm and not twist easily; the forefoot (at the ball of the foot) should flex naturally with your step.

What to Look For by Shoe Type

Athletic and Running Shoes

• Replace running shoes every 300–500 miles — the cushioning breaks down before the upper shows visible wear
• Have your gait analyzed at a specialty running store or by your podiatrist to determine whether you need a neutral, stability, or motion-control shoe
• Make sure the toe box is wide enough — your toes spread when your foot strikes the ground, and compression causes black toenails, blisters, and neuromas

Dress and Casual Shoes

• Heel height should ideally be 1 inch or less; every additional inch of heel height dramatically increases pressure on the ball of the foot and shortens the Achilles tendon
• Look for a cushioned insole and a sole that absorbs shock
• Natural materials (leather, canvas) allow the foot to breathe and reduce moisture — a factor in fungal infections

Sandals and Flip-Flops

• Avoid wearing flip-flops for prolonged standing or walking — they provide no arch support and force the toes to grip, stressing the plantar fascia and tendons
• If you prefer open footwear, look for sandals with a contoured footbed and arch support
• Never wear flip-flops or bare feet in public locker rooms, pools, or showers — the risk of fungal and bacterial infections is high

Red Flags: Shoes That Harm Your Feet

• Pointed toe boxes that squeeze toes together
• Heels higher than 2 inches worn regularly
• Completely flat, unsupported soles (ballet flats, flip-flops as everyday footwear)
• Shoes that need to be "broken in" — a properly fitted shoe should be comfortable from the first wear
• Shoes that are a half-size or more too small because "they'll stretch"
• Worn-out athletic shoes with compressed cushioning